Cotopaxi and Cayembe

My adventure began with a late-night arrival in Quito in 2013, shrouded in darkness as we made the long ride from the airport to the hotel. Exhausted yet eager, I finally settled into the comforting confines of my hotel for a much-needed rest. Morning brought with it the promise of exploration as I descended to breakfast and encountered my fellow adventurers and guides. The anticipation of the day's adventures helped us quickly bond, and soon we were off for a day packed with sightseeing and a unique visit to the equator museum an hour outside the city.

Quito is an enchanting city, its history and vibrant culture always apparent. After immersing ourselves in its charm, we journeyed to the equatorial monument, where standing precisely on the equator line was an experience to behold. Our guide demonstrated the curious phenomenon known as widdershins, showing how water spins counter-clockwise in the southern hemisphere and clockwise in the northern. The museum's gift shop, albeit bizarre, with its offerings of shrunken monkey heads, was a sight to remember!

Our acclimatization hike took us to the lush, misty cloud forests above Quito, a refreshing prelude to our real mountaineering challenges. At the Teleferico, we ascended to Rucu Pichincha’s summit at around 15,696 feet. Though the day was cloudy with occasional showers, the hike was invigorating and offered a solemn beauty one only finds in nature’s highest heights.

Next, we moved to a picturesque hacienda near Otavalo, our base for a few days. Otavalo’s market dazzled with its array of alpaca wool blankets, vibrant hats, and an assortment of goods ranging from leather products to exotic produce. It was captivating to see everything from fresh meats and fish to the regionally famed delicacy - guinea pig.

The hacienda, a restored 500-year-old estate, radiated charm and history. Each meal felt like a feast with exquisite steaks paired with fine red wine, a deserved indulgence after our adventures. Our transition to the base of Cayambe was bittersweet, leaving behind comfort for the rugged allure of the mountains. We hiked to our summit camp, perched at 15,000 feet, on terrain that was deceptively gentle, masking the altitude’s challenge.

After we unpacked in our hut, we honed our glacier travel skills - rope techniques, harnesses, crampons, and ice axes. Just after midnight, under a starlit sky, we embarked on our ascent to Cayambe’s summit. These early alpine starts carried the thrill of the unknown, as our headlamps revealed only fragments of the terrain ahead, leaving the pitch of the climb to our imagination. Unlike climbs such as Carstensz Pyramid or Kilimanjaro, Cayambe was pure glacier climbing. Upon reaching the summit  the fierce winds greeted us and we paused to savor hot tea from a thermos, capturing the moment in photos and videos before our descent.

After packing up at base camp and enjoying a hearty breakfast  we traveled south towards Cotopaxi National Park. Our lodging near the park gave us a well-earned rest before we moved to the José Ribas Refuge at 16,000 feet. The refuge, bustling with other climbers, was a hive of anticipation as we prepared for Cotopaxi's climb. As nightfall brought cold, we admired the sunset over the valley, an ethereal sight as we layered up for warmth.

Our night’s rest was brief as we rose before midnight,  excitement palpable among climbers gearing up. After fueling with quick bites of toast, jam, and cheese, we began our climb with headlamps illuminating the path. The ascent to Cotopaxi’s summit, at 19,347 feet, was an awe-inspiring journey around immense ice formations, under a dome of starlight that slowly gave way to dawn.

On reaching the summit, which overlooked the active volcano's caldera, we peered into the earth’s fiery depths, smelling sulfur as smoke rose skywards. The views were mesmerizing, with Cayambe and Chimborazo distantly framed by the Andes. We celebrated our successful summit of Cotopaxi  in Baños, a town on the edge of the Amazon known for its laid-back vibe and hippie charm. Our time there was a perfect end to the expedition.

Ecuador had left an indelible mark on me - its people with warm hearts,  flavorful cuisine, and unparalleled climbing. So enchanted was I, that I returned with my family years later, during New Year's, to share the magic of Quito, the Equatorial monument, Otovalo and Baños. Ecuador is a special place, offering an experience that lingers long after the journey’s end.